Cold Sesame Noodles

 Cold sesame noodles originated in China during the Tang Dynasty around 700 AD. This iconic dish typically includes sesame paste, chili oil, and scallions.

Called liang mian, it’s popular in many regions of China, especially Sichuan province, during the summer months. It’s eaten at noddle stalls, cafés and at home. Americans, too, have an on-going love affair with cold sesame noodles. It’s available on most Chinese restaurant menus throughout the country and in New York City can be found in supermarket take-out food counters.

Despite its long history chef and restaurateur Shorty Tang—who emigrated from Sichuan to Taipei to New York—claims to be its inventor. His version dates from the late 1960s when Shorty and his dish became wildly popular at his Chinatown restaurant, Hwa Yuan, now run by his son and grandson.

Cold sesame noodles are super easy to make.  To be honest, the hardest part is the hunt for the ingredients which is also part of the fun.  If your city does not have a Chinatown, or a supermarket well stocked with ethnic ingredients, then go online.

Feel free to personalize this basic recipe with your choice of pasta and condiments. I added chopped peanuts, cucumber sticks and blanched, fresh bean sprouts. Next time, I’ll add fresh corn kernels and a sprinkling of sesame seeds.

One of the key ingredients in this dish is Chinese toasted sesame seed paste. This is different from tahini, the Middle Eastern paste made from plain, untoasted sesame seeds. However, in a pinch you can use tahini if you add a touch of sesame oil to compensate for the flavor difference.

The sauce can be made in advance. If it thickens up, just add a few tablespoons of warm chicken or vegetable broth.  Another tip is to make sure the noodles are still a bit warm before dressing them.

Ingredients:

1 pound fresh or dried noodles (Chinese or Italian. I prefer Italian spaghetti-style pasta.)

For the sauce: 

2 tablespoons fresh ginger root, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh garlic, chopped

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil, plus a splash for the cooked noodles

2 tablespoons toasted white sesame paste

3 tablespoons black soy sauce

1 tablespoon black rice vinegar

2 tablespoon smooth peanut butter

1 tablespoon Szechuan chili oil (less if you are heat sensitive)

1 tablespoon sugar

For the condiments:

¾ cups fresh bean sprouts, blanched for 90 seconds, drained and chilled

2 Persian cucumbers, peeled, seeded and cut into thin strips

¼ cup toasted peanuts, finely chopped

1-2 scallions, finely sliced on the diagonal, white and green parts.

Cooking directions:

1.      Cook noodles according to directions to al dente stage.  Drain and toss with a splash of sesame oil.  Set aside.

2.     Using a food processor with a metal blade, add all the ingredients (except pasta and condiments!) and pulse in several 3-second bursts to pulverize the ginger and garlic. Then run for 2 minutes until sauce is smooth. (All of this can be made in a bowl, too, but be sure to finely mince garlic and ginger.)

3.     Pour the sauce over the noodles and toss. Put in a serving dish.

4.     Top with condiments of your choice. Or put in separate serving dishes and allow your guests to select their preferences.

Serves: 4-6

Wine recommendation: Crémant d’Alsace, Chein Blanc, Gewürztraminer, off-dry Riesling, or Pinotage from South Africa.  Or a cold Chinese beer such as Tsingtao.