Paris-Brest
In 1910 a pastry chef called Louis Durand invented this now iconic French dessert, Paris-Brest. The dessert takes its name from an amateur bicycle race first held in 1891—and which still exists—which goes from Paris to Brest, a port city in northwest France. Chef Durand designed it to resemble a bike wheel, with its ring of pâte à choux, or cream puff dough, split horizontally then filled with a praline mousseline topped with toasted almonds. In fact, there are many other possible fillings for this party dessert from whipped cream to butter cream to the classic hazelnut praline-flavored Crème Pâtissière or Pastry Cream which is what this recipe calls for.
As it happens, this was one of the sweet dishes my goddaughters, Zoe and Mei Carter, recently learned to make at their “Choux” class at La Cuisine Paris. While their recipe produced small, individual Paris-Brests, this version is for a full-sized pastry.
Choux Pastry (Pâte-à-Choux)
Have all ingredients at room temperature.
½ cup water
½ cup whole milk
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
4-5 large eggs
½ cup sliced hazelnuts (or almonds)
1. To make the pastry, center a rack in the oven and preheat to 425°F. Line one cookie sheet with a silicon mat. Before making the dough, prepare the ring design. Using parchment paper, draw an 8-inch circle. Turn the paper over and place it on the mat. Fit a pastry bag with a large (2/3-inch-diameter) plain or star tip and keep nearby. (More details will follow)
2. In a heavy-bottomed, medium saucepan, bring the water, milk, butter, sugar, and salt to a boil over high heat and cook until the butter is thoroughly melted. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture pulls away from the side of the pan and forms a ball. Return the pan to medium heat and stir for 1 to 2 minutes, until the mixture starts to dry out a bit.
3. Transfer the mixture to a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. (You can also use a hand mixer.) Working at a high speed, add one egg at a time, making sure each one is fully incorporated. The dough is ready when it is smooth, thick, and shiny.
4. While the dough is still warm, spoon into the pastry bag. Keep the tip 1 to 2 inches above the circle design and pipe a ring of dough about 1 inch thick. Pipe a second ring right inside the first one, just touching it. Finally, pipe a third ring on top of the other two rings making sure to pipe along the seam where the bottom rings meet. There will be leftover dough which can be piped out onto parchment paper into any shape (ie: éclairs) and frozen for another day. No need to defrost! Just bake a little longer.
5. Sprinkle the top of the ring with the sliced nuts and bake in the oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 375°F and bake another 20-25 minutes until the ring is golden brown. Transfer the ring to a cooling rack and allow it to come to room temperature. As soon as it is cool enough to handle, carefully cut the ring in half horizontally using a serrated knife. Remove any excess uncooked dough from the center.
Hazelnut Pastry Cream (Crème Pâtissière)
Have all ingredients at room temperature.
2 cups whole milk
6 large egg yolks (save the whites for another use such as a soufflé)
½ cup granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
⅓ cup cornstarch, sifted
3½ tablespoons unsalted butter, divided into four equal pieces, softened
2 Tablespoons Hazelnut praliné or paste (available on-line)
6. To make the pastry cream, in a medium saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. In a separate medium sized bowl, mix sugar and cornstarch together to remove any lumps, then whisk in the egg yolks. Pour half of the hot milk into the sugar and egg mixture whisking steadily. Pour everything back into the saucepan and whisk over medium heat until it starts to bubble. Keep whisking for another minute, then remove from the heat. Allow to cool.
7. In a medium bowl whisk the soft butter and praline together until smooth. Then whisk in the cooled pastry cream. Cover with saran wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.
8. To assemble the Paris-Brest transfer pastry ring to a serving dish and carefully remove the top. Spoon the pastry cream into the base then settle the top of the Paris-Brest into place. Refrigerate for at least one hour (or up to 8 hours) before serving. Before serving generously sprinkle the top with confectioners’ sugar.
Serves: 6-8
Wine recommendation: None. Just enjoy the splendor and richness of the Paris Brest. Serve coffee or espresso afterward. Then, break out the after-dinner digestifs such as Cognac, Armagnac, Ratafia, or Sherry.