A love affair with Mexico (Part 2)

Trying to describe a nation’s “personality” is pure folly, as one of my astute friends reminded me.  Let’s face it.  There is no one archetype of any nationality. However, there are some distinctive characteristics which helps differentiate one nationality from another.  Many of these are based on a country’s history and traditions.  Here are a few traits which have resonated with several of my friends and me based on our various trips to Mexico. They are but a few of many reasons why the country remains at the top of our respective lists of places to revisit. 

The importance of family 

To gain a better insight into the Mexican gestalt, let’s start this discussion with some of the ways Mexicans describe themselves.  One of our guides—a charming, young lady who took us through Luis Barragán’s home in the Mexico City’s Pedregal neighborhood—laughingly told us: “We Mexicans live together with our families; it is our tradition and that’s just the way it is.”  What she was referring to is the concept of a tight family unit.  As she explained, multiple generations will frequently live under the same roof or at least in the same neighborhood.  

Because Mexicans are so family-oriented, they tend to be less individualistic than we Americans. This means that making decisions on major aspects of life, such as education, money, or relationships, often involves an entire family, not just an individual. This tendency of collectivity applies to their extended family of friends as well as they, too, are an integral part of how Mexicans lead their daily lives.  

A spirited population 

In Puebla, our young lawyer-turned-local guide, Aitor Santos, described Mexican people as excitable and spirited. He recounted the tradition of youngsters hiring mariachi band to serenade their girlfriends late at night.  That didn’t sound that extraordinary until he casually added “when we celebrate our first month together.”  Then, he remarked that the neighbors were not often happy about being awaken from their sleep and would sometimes throw buckets of water on the heads of the band. That was unless the male suitor was from their neighborhood!  

A nation of devote Catholics 

While I’m no expert, it seems to me that the importance given to the family unit and their close friends can be attributed to the country’s historic connection with religion.  First, in pre-Columbian times, the natives fervently worshiped the pagan gods of their great civilizations, Maya, Inca and Aztec, among others. Then came the conquistadors who arrived in 1519. Their mission was to overtake the reigning and powerful Aztec nation and then, convert the indigenous people to Christianity.  Fast forward and 500 years later, 80% of the population today self-identifies as Roman Catholic.  

The conversion of the heathens 

How the conquistador went about achieving this goal, and its impact on modern-day Mexico, is fascinating. At first the Spaniards used a heavy hand by trying to totally eradicate all traces of the natives’ religion and customs. When this was unsuccessful, a lighter approach was taken. Whereas certain traditions, such as human sacrifice and polygamy were unacceptable by the Church, most other rituals were preserved. This meant the indigenous were able to continue their tradition of seasonal festivals, dances, and feasts. However, the significance behind these rituals was gradually replaced with a Catholic meaning. Success to the Christians.   

That said, the natives were allowed to keep their identity. To this day, Mexican relish their rich tradition of festivals, folk dancing, and general merriment. We’ve been told by locals that Mexicans will use any opportunity to party with their family and friends. And celebrate they do! Just look at a Mexican tourism calendar and you‘ll see a festival for every season and every occasion. 

An underlying dignity and grace  

Paddy Nichols, a British travel expert who lives in France, has traveled extensively to Mexico starting first as a Spanish language major in college. After visiting all the major Mayan sites in the Yucatan, she had hope to become an archeologist before she was bitten by a wild dog in Chichen Itza and had to return to England for a rabies injection! 

Four years later she was sent as a tour escort to Guadalajara with a group of New York City Retired Teachers in the country to learn Spanish on their winter break.  While they attended classes, Paddy was free to explore and spent many hours with locals informally studying their culture and cuisine.  

Her defining moment of the people of Mexico, as she described it, was on the occasion of Pope Paul II’s visit. “I mingled with one million Mexicans, waves of indigenous poor who came, some from hundreds of miles, many on foot, multi-generational families in colorful local dress, to listen to the Pope preach a special sermon.  It was a unique experience to see, to be part of this amazing peaceful demonstration in a country known more for its corruption and horrific violence.” To this she added, “I’ve only known affection and kindness from Mexicans from all walks of life.” 

A tradition of generosity and kindness  

Given than most Mexicans are deeply religious, one could say that they live “what the good book teaches.” For example, they are exceptionally kind and generous, two important traits which keep visitors coming back.  There are many stories of Mexicans going out of their way to help tourists.  Naturally, I have one too. 

Years ago, I was looking for a special Mexican candy—a hard, fruit-flavored candy with a raisin in the middle—and mentioned it to Victor, the concierge at the Red Tree House in Mexico City where I was staying. The next day, he handed me a bag of Neapolitans (that’s what they’re called) explaining that he had located the factory which produced them, then after work had driven across town to get them for me.  If you have even been to CDMX, a city of 25 million people which is larger than Los Angeles, you understand that this could have taken several hours!  

I still dole out the remaining few pieces of Neapolitans as if they were precious gold.  Victor’s unsolicited generosity—my paying for them was out of the question—remains as one of my favorite stories about visiting Mexico.  

Being hospitable and friendly: Part of Mexicans’ DNA

Linda Gist, former broadcaster, agrees with me. When I asked her to describe some of the more prominent Mexican traits, she replied with no hesitation, “Friendly and kind are the first and strongest words that pop into my head. I am constantly asking people for directions, and no one has ever rolled his/her eyes at my halting, present-tense-only, horribly accented attempts at Spanish.”

Linda has been traveling Mexico since 1966. Her first stop was Acapulco, a city she thought “the most glamorous city ever.” When I emailed her for a quote Linda told me she as leaving the next day for yet another trip to Mexico. “So, I’ve truly been visiting different parts of the country my entire adult life.”

An ancestral pride in hygiene and cleanliness  

On a recent trip to Mexico I traveled with Kate Hanenberg, an architectural designer. On our first morning walk through La Condesa, a charming neighborhood in CDMX where we were staying, she pointed out several groups of of locals sweeping the streets with old-fashioned, corn fiber brooms. Turns out this custom has a long history dating back to the time of the Aztecs. It is said that the streets of Tenochtitlán—now Mexico City—were swept and washed daily by a team of a thousand street cleaners, who were supervised by health officers. At that time, the Aztecs bathed at least once a day in public baths. The ruling conquistadores, on the other hand, only managed to do so once a year! In fact, when The Aztec ambassadors went to meet Cortéz (who headed the 1519 expedition), they needed to use perfumed handkerchiefs to camouflage the stink coming off the Spaniards. To this day, Mexicans feel it is their duty to maintain good personal hygiene.  

The heritage of bright colors

With each trip to Mexico, I’ve been struck by the country’s bright color palate . You are   enveloped by a riot of vibrant hues everywhere you go. From the food markets to the restaurants, crafts shops, and neighborhoods. The country’s sensitivity to colors never fails to put a smile on my face and make me happy. 

On our last day in Oaxaca on the way to the airport, I asked our taxi driver why Mexicans liked bright colors so much. She replied off-handedly, as we drove past brightly painted houses surrounded by hot pink and florescent corral bougainvillea and streets lined with purple jacaranda and shimmering gold primavera trees, “Our talent for colors reflects our love of nature.”  I suspected she was only telling part of the story.

Back home, I investigated further. What I discovered was that the use of vivid colors found throughout the country is part of their Mesoamerican heritage. This love of color dates to pre-Columbian times when the dyes used were naturally occurring from plants, insects, and minerals. (Incidentally, many of these natural dyes are still used today in producing Mexican textiles and rugs)! 

More importantly, color at that time carried important religious symbolism. In the Mayan and Aztec civilizations, for example, different colors represented the cardinal points, or different corners of the earth. Additionally, each direction was associated with a ruling deity. Even though anthropologists have found inconsistencies (such as “East” could be white, yellow, blue, gray, or green), the importance Mexicans ascribe to colors today is dramatic. It is not an arbitrary choice. It is throwback to their heritage where colors had meaning beyond their visual esthetic appeal.   

Color choice to protect a city’s status

Oaxaca’s neighborhoods are unique with their houses painted almost edible shades of deep purple, orange, green, red, banana yellow, salmon, raspberry, turquoise, blueberry and lemon and lime. Its visual beauty is why the city is a World Heritage site. Given its status, it is essential that the city’s “look” be protected. To do this, the local government determines which colors are used to paint local homes. If the residents don’t follow the guidelines, they are fined heavily. If the infraction is not corrected and the homes repainted, posters are pasted on their walls to shame them.  Eventually, if the problem persists, their home is confiscated.

An extraordinary architect and colorist

When in CDMX last month, Kate introduced me to one of Mexico’s most influential contemporary architects, Pritzker Prize-winner, Luis Barragán. He is best known for producing stunning, minimalist structures described by experts as “serene and evocative.” We visited a private home and gardens he designed located in the Pedegral neighborhood. There, Barragán’s dramatically sumptuous use of color—pink, turquoise, and gold—and the way he played with natural materials and light was nothing short of breath-taking.

Afterwards, we had lunch next door at the Tetetlán Café, a former stable converted into an exquisitely designed space with a restaurant, library, local crafts shop and yoga studio. As we sat down, I noticed a tiny, brilliant red bean on each of our salmon-pink napkins. A remarkably simple, yet striking use of color just as we had witnessed in Barragán’s house. I discreetly pocketed the bean which now rests on a delicate silver dish next to my bed stand as a small homage to Mexico’s vibrantly rich culture, its land, its people, and its cuisine.

PS: For those followers with a sweet tooth, Laposse’s Neapolitan candies can now be purchased online (https://www.mexgrocer.com/17557-00106.html). Save a bag for me!