Japan, a Land of Sui Generis Surprises Part 1
When Japan first came up on my radar as a potential country to visit, I hesitated. Why? Because Japanese food is not really my thing. What would I find to eat there? Plus, it doesn’t produce good wines. At least not yet.
Given that food and wine are fundamental to my choice of vacation destinations, naturally I needed convincing. But eventually, encouraged by many friends who sang the praises of Japan, I acquiesced. Now having recently crisscrossed the country for two weeks with Odyssey Unlimited I can confirm that at least one of my early assumptions was true. Japan’s wine industry is still “under development.” That said, I must also admit that the local beer and sake enjoyed on the trip more than adequately made up for the wine deficit.
Now, assumption #2. Before this trip I was totally misguided about the country’s food scene. I discovered that Japanese cuisine isn’t just raw fish and sticky rice. In fact, its diversity of cooking styles and ingredients kept me constantly curious and hungry for more as we traveled from Tokyo to Mount Fuji, Hakone, Kanazawa, Kyoto, and finally Hiroshima. In retrospect, my unparalleled eating adventure wildly exceeded my fearful expectations.
Given Japan is composed of over 14,000 islands, fish was an omnipresent staple. But pork, chicken, and out-of-this-world beef were also available. Served grilled, fried or poached in broth, shabu-shabu hot pot-style, there was always something tasty to eat. One of my favorite casual lunches consisted of chicken yakitori or charcoal grilled, bite-size pieces of chicken thighs and livers on bamboo sticks seasoned with a savory-sweet sauce. And who could say lie or “no” to tempura with its exquisite morsels of delicately batter-fried shrimp, bamboo shoots, sweet potato, and matsutake mushrooms?
Did I forget to praise the best fried oysters I’ve ever eaten or ramen, Japan’s ultimate comfort food? While there, I learned that each region has its own interpretation of this tasty broth and noodle—udon, soba or wheat—dish served with delectable pieces of meat or fish, tofu and vegetables along with myriad toppings.
Admittedly, I’m merely scratching the surface of Japan’s rich and diverse cuisine with these observations of local deliciousness. But this was just one of many unexpected surprises on my maiden voyage to Nihon. To amplify my thoughts about the country, I decided to canvas my fellow travelers. (I also added comments from other pals who championed the country.) What astounded them the most? What were their favorite revelations of Japan’s one-of-a-kind culture?
Michael Cui, nurse, hospital administrator, and ace amateur photographer woke up at 5:00 AM every morning to explore the neighborhood outside our various hotel before meeting us for breakfast. There he’d show the group his stunning photos of quaint houses, beautiful gardens and serene, sacred structures. Here are his comments on his forays:
For me, it was a return visit after 55 years. I didn’t realize how many different shrines and temples Japan has along with all the beauty and history the country offers.
In fact, we were all surprised to learn that there are 80,000 Shinto shrines and 77,000 Buddhist temples in Japan. This number added together represents three times the number of convenience stores and they were everywhere! (Yes, a convoluted factoid which, incidentally, is further commented on in this week’s recipe for onigiri rice balls, a convenience store staple.)
Joan Brower, avid world traveler to 53 countries and retired tourism public relations executive, described her Japan experience as “head-spinning.” More specifically she elaborated:
Most surprising to me about Japan were the extremes -- the interactive dynamic between its ancient history, architecture, customs and deep spirituality, and its ultra-modern technology and cutting-edge innovation -- all existing side by side in a high-functioning, working environment.
For example: With thousands of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples in active use, much of the population evidently practices both religions simultaneously (e.g., a person's wedding may be held at a Shinto shrine, but the same person's funeral will be conducted in a Buddhist temple). Japan's historic, cultural etiquette is also still keenly observed (bowing at almost every occasion, removing shoes before entering rooms including bathrooms, sleeping in ryokans and dining on tatami mats).
In contrast, the country's technological achievements are light years ahead of those developed by many other countries (robot workers delivered our room service order and cleared dirty dishes in restaurants; vending machines were everywhere selling pretty much everything; the infamous TOTO toilets had 10 or more functions and mechanisms to ensure cleanliness; and the ever-punctual bullet trains or Shinkansen -- some decorated with "Hello Kitty" animes -- carried us along at 180 miles an hour).
Joan Ross, accountant, opera lover, and # 1 Toto fan, effused that Japan was all about its distinctive cultural heritage.
In a country with so many people, their behavior is exemplary. No crowding, no shoving, and always paying attention to the rules (no jaywalking, patiently waiting at traffic lights even in the total absence of cars, for example). And obviously, their outward display of politeness is remarkable even when dealing with impatient tourists, whose behavior must be quite frustrating for them. And of course, the robots are extraordinarily polite. And cute.
I was also impressed by those who were so enthusiastic about talking to us about New York, how much they loved it, and how much they wanted to travel there. While the events of 1945 must always be in their thoughts, (referring to the American military’s atomic bombs released over Hiroshima and Nagasaki) the eighty years since then have transformed the country into one of the leaders in the world economy while still preserving the astonishing history of its relics and traditions.
Robin Taubin, retired corporate attorney, sports and culture enthusiast, and proud grandmother of four, added these enthusiastic observations:
If there is one thing that was most notable to me in Japan, it was the attention to detail. The gardens were designed and manicured so beautifully. The food was prepared and presented so that every dish was as beautiful as it was delicious. The design of their buildings reflected the details needed for both design and function. Even the bullet train was engineered to stop at the exact location on the platform so passengers could get on and off the train with ease. When we witnessed the tea ceremony, every movement was so purposeful. Of course, the toilets were one of the stars of the trip, that I do miss now that I am home. As I said before, this gives new meaning to and puts a positive light on the phrase “being on the hot seat.”
If you’ve never been to Japan, then all this waxing poetic about the engineering marvel of their toilets may seem bizarre. To help understand our fascination with brand leader Toto’s “Toilet Regime,” consider this dreamy description by Joan Ross of just some of the eco-friendly, musically choreographed, self-cleaning conveniences we encountered.
It's the middle of the night. You wake up with the need to use the toilet. Not wanting to shock yourself awake with a bright light, you shuffle into the dark bathroom. The lid of the toilet slowly rises revealing a small blue light that illuminates, in the softest way possible, your surroundings. You sit down, or stand, do your thing and, if you choose, make use of one of the dozen or so options on the panel next to the toilet: water spray, dryer, music, etc. When you are ready to leave the lovely warm seat, you stand and in a moment the toilet flushes by itself. You wash your hands, return to your bed, and fall back into blissful sleep. An altogether lovely experience and one that should be available to everyone, everywhere.
Michael Apstein, physician, professor of medicine, and prominent wine writer contributed these favorite revelations:
Since it was our second trip, some things that surprised us the first time—how clean the streets and subways were despite the absence of trashcans—did not. What became clear was how the Japanese have an enormous respect for their surroundings, from the clean streets to the manicured and gorgeous gardens, to the lack of noise on subways or trains (no cell use!). They realize that what surrounds them—people, gardens, sidewalks—is public and needs to be respected.
Three things did surprise us. We were lucky that our entire trip coincided with cherry blossoms. I thought there would be some trees—but the scale of the display and the locals’ enthusiasm for them was staggering. It’s the national tree. There are hundreds, thousands of them wherever you go. They are illuminated at night. Crowds emerge from everyone to view them, take pictures of and with them, and picnic under them. They dot the landscape—patches of pink or white stand out among the evergreens—or hundreds of line canals and moat, their splendor reflecting in the water.
Another surprise was the ability to send your luggage to your next destination, which made traveling so much easier. You’d leave a suitcase or two in the lobby of your hotel the day before check-out and it would magically appear in the room of your next hotel.
And thirdly, the ubiquity of inexpensive—especially compared to NYC—of high-quality sushi!
Steve Quiles, fashion illustrator, and frequent business traveler to Japan, wrapped up succinctly the many reasons for the country’s recent popularity among foreign visitors: Japan, I love the blend between modern style mixed with Japanese tradition. The beauty and culture are quite unique; nothing can compare to its traditional origins that still exist in today’s (modern) world.
In a New York Times Magazine special on Japan this past April, writer Hanya Yanagihara described the country as being “stubbornly sui generis,” a term totally unknown to me. Turns out it’s a fancy way to say what Steve did: unique or of its own kind. However, Yanagihara’s description deserves to be repeated here as it aptly synthesizes the essence of the country as well as illustrates how it has won the hearts, fascination, and respect of so many visitors.
(Japan is) a place that has remained distinctly apart, despite all its trappings of modernity and globalization, a place whose visual and artistic sensibility, though much of it originated in China and Korea, felt irreducible and inimitable.
This is Part 1 of a series of three posts about Japan. It’s my goal to have all my followers add Japan to their bucket list.