Pears in Red Wine Sauce

On a recent trip to Paris, I enjoyed a heavenly pear dessert at Restaurant Anne created by Executive Chef, Mathieu Pacaud. The chef’s creative construction dazzled me, as did the dessert’s taste. I knew then that a challenge was at hand: Could this be recreated chez moi back in New York City? You know me and pears.

Once home I conferred with my favorite wine merchant. He recommended Amicale, a wine from the Veneto instead of traditional French Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah for the sauce.  Amicale is unique as it blends together two styles of wines: one still and another using the passito method. This refers to first drying overly ripe grapes for several weeks on mats before pressing and fermenting into a wine.

To develop this recipe, I started by first tasting the Amicale. From there spices and fresh fruit as ingredients for the sauce were selected to mirror the wine’s complex flavor profile. The result was a knockout sauce: bold, exotic, and intoxicatingly delicious. 

Not only does this dish incorporate a pear poached in red wine, but also gingerbread croutons plus a dried pear wafer as a decorative accent. While none of this is difficult to make, it’s a showoff dessert which requires time.  Making it in steps facilitates the process so do not feel intimidated. Alternatively, you can just make the pears in red wine sauce and call it a day.

By the way, the pear dessert I created is featured on the right.

Ingredients:

For the red wine poached pears:

6 medium sized pears, peeled with stems left intact and seeds removed. (Anjou or Bosc recommended.)  

½ cup sugar

1 large piece orange rind

2 ½ cups red wine (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah or get adventurous with a robust Italian wine.)

½ cup fresh orange juice (or water)

½ cup fresh black raspberries, raspberries of black cherries (optional)

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 stick cinnamon

5 white pepper corns

5 cardamon pods

1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice

½ cup vanilla flavored crème fraîche (whipped cream or mascarpone cheese works too)

1 cup gingerbread croutons or 2-3 almond biscotti, crumbled.

Cooking instructions:

1.    Carefully remove the seeds from the pears using an apple corer. Keep pears in a bowl of water with a Tablespoon of lemon juice while the sauce is prepared.

2.    Place all the ingredients (except the pears and garnishes) in a heavy saucepan large enough so that the pears can fit snuggly in an upright position and allow for them to be fully submerged in the liquid.

3.    Bring to a boil then lower the heat to a simmer. Stir several times to help the sugar dissolve. Cook for 2-3 more minutes.

4.    If you use fresh fruit in the sauce—other than the pears—strain the red wine liquid into a sieve over a bowl to remove the seeds. Carefully remove the spices and orange peel from the sieve and put back into the saucepan along with the liquid.

5.    Lower the fresh pears into the liquid keeping them stem side up.

6.    Poach at a low simmer for 20-25 minutes, rotating pears every 5 minutes so that they poach evenly. Pierce with a knife to see if the pears are tender.

7.    Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow the pears to cool down in poaching liquid. Then transfer the pears onto a plate and cover with plastic wrap. Set aside while you finish the sauce.

8.    Heat the remaining wine liquid to a simmer and cook a few minutes until it becomes a thick sauce. If it becomes too thick, add a few Tablespoons of water.  Pour poaching liquid into a bowl, add in pears standing upright, cover and chill. (Can be made 1 day in advance.)

9.    Before serving allow pears to come to room temperature.

10. To prepare the croutons, use store bought gingerbread cut into ¼ inch cubes, toasted in the oven until lightly browned for about 5 minutes. Turn off heat and keep in the oven for 5-10 more minutes while cubes dry out. (This can be made in advance.)

11. Arrange one pear on an individual plate encircled with either toasted gingerbread croutons or crumbled biscotti. Pour a puddle of wine sauce on the side along with dollop of crème fraîche. Finally garnish with one slice of pear wafer leaning against the pear.

Makes: 6 servings

Ingredients:

For the pear wafers:

¼ cup sugar

½ cup water

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

2 firm pears

Cooking instructions

1.    Preheat oven to 200°F. Line 2 large flat baking sheets with parchment paper or silicon mats.

2.    In a small saucepan add sugar and water and simmer until sugar is dissolved, stirring frequently. Stir in lemon juice. Allow to cool.

3.    Use a mandolin to thinly slice the pears (keep skin on!) lengthwise, 1/8 inch thick. Dip each slice in the sugar solution, shaking off any excess, and arrange on the baking sheets as close together as possible.

4.    Bake pears on a middle rack for approximately 2 ½ hours or until crisp. Turn the baking sheets around mid-way through the baking process. (Pears can be made and stored in airtight containers for up to 2 months.)

Makes:  20-25 wafers (Keep extra wafers for snacking.)

Wine recommendations: Absolutely none. This dessert is so rich, it really stands on its own.  Instead, offer a bracing espresso afterwards.