Coq au Vin
Coq au Vin is probably one of the best-known French chicken dishes. Certainly, Julia Child’s recipe for it is iconic. My recipe follows Julia’s detailed direction to a point but then, as I am admittedly a lazy cook, I allowed shortcuts and modern conveniences to intervene. My goddaughters, Zoe and Mei, used this modified version when they recently cooked dinner for their parents at my apartment in Paris. Their big advantage, besides landing a delicious free-range, organic Label Rouge chicken at my favorite boucherie, was also having access to all the other top French ingredients.
When I retested the recipe back in New York, I took the easy route and selected chicken thighs. The traditional dish calls for using an entire bird cut up into pieces. But that requires a little maneuvering to keep the breast meat moist. Here is a much-simplified version of the classic Coq au Vin recipe. However, in my self-protecting, one-sided opinion, I don’t think the taste is compromised other than the use of frozen pearl onions instead of fresh ones. If this does not disturb you, then be lazy like me.
Ingredients:
3 pounds chicken legs and thighs
1 teaspoon sea salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups full-bodied red wine such as a Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel or Sangiovese
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
4 thick slices of bacon, diced into ¼ inch slices (4 oz. of diced lardon or pancetta works nicely too)
4 tablespoons EVOO, more as needed
¼ cup Cognac
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
1 large red onion, peeled and diced
1 ½ to 2 cups beef stock (I cheated and used “Better than bouillon”)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
3 tablespoons softened butter (to be divided for multiple uses)
½ pound white Champignon de Paris mushrooms, halved or quartered, if large
24 frozen, peeled pearl onions, defrosted
1 tablespoon flour
Cooking instructions:
1. Season the chicken pieces then put in a large bowl. Add wine, garlic, bay leaf, and thyme. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours. Overnight is even better!
2. In a large Dutch oven, cook the bacon pieces over a medium heat until golden brown. Remove using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Set aside.
3. Remove the chicken from the marinade and save the liquid. Dry the chicken thoroughly with paper towels. Using the rendered bacon fat, fry the pieces of chicken slowly in batches, making sure not to crowd, for 3 to 5 minutes per side. If needed, add additional olive oil. Transfer cooked chicken onto a platter.
4. Add the chopped onion and carrot to the Dutch oven and sauté until lightly browned. Add more olive oil if needed.
5. Return all the chicken pieces to the pot, carefully pour in Cognac, ignite with a lighted match. Shake pot back and forth until flames die down. If this makes you nervous, do not worry about flaming the Cognac as it will cook down in several minutes. However if you do decide to flame: BE CAREFUL NEVER TO POUR COGNAC FROM THE BOTTLE!
6. Add the liquid marinade, any accumulated juices, the tomato paste, and bacon bits to the pot. Cover and simmer for an hour. Turn the pieces of chicken halfway through the cooking process. Remove lid for 15 additional minutes so liquid can thicken.
7. While the Coq au Vin is cooking, prepare your mushrooms and onions. In a skillet, melt one tablespoon of butter and sauté the mushrooms, tossing them gently for 6-7 minutes until golden brown. Set aside. Add another tablespoon of butter to the skillet and sauté the defrosted pearl onions. Set aside.
8. Blend final tablespoon of butter with flour into a paste in a small saucer. Using a slotted spoon, remove chicken pieces and vegetables into a large bowl. Add flour paste to remaining liquid in the pot beating it in thoroughly with a whisk as the sauce simmers and thickens, for about 3-5 minutes. Carefully taste sauce and adjust seasoning adding more salt or pepper as needed.
9. Return chicken to the Dutch oven along with the sauteed mushrooms and pearl onions. At this point, the Coq au Vin can be cooled, covered then refrigerated for up to two days. Or reheat everything for 4-5 minutes and serve. Serve the Coq au Vin from the Dutch oven. Accompany with parsley potatoes or egg noodles, buttered green peas, a mixed salad and of course, slices of crusty baguette.
Serves: 4-6
Wine recommendation: It is traditional in France to serve the same wine you used to make the Coq au Vin with your meal. This is a simple, homey dish so the wine does not need to be expensive, just of good quality. My preference is usually a Beaujolais Village or a medium-bodied Cru Beaujolais such as Morgon, Chénas or Brouilly.